Lasting and sewing machine for boots and shoes.



,766- PATENTED APR. 24, 1906.

J. KEATS, DBGD. J. 0. KEATS, ADMINISTRATOR. LASTING AND SEWING MACHINEFOR BOOTS AND SHOES.

APPLIOATION FILED MAB-24,1904.

6 SHEETS-SHEBT l.

Ilia/armed:- (J

No. 818,766. PATENTED APR. 24, 1906. J. KEATS, DECD.

J. C. KEATS, ADMINISTRATOR.

LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE FOR BOOTS AND SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED MAR.24,1904.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

No. 818,766. PATENTED APR. 24, 1906. J. KEATS, DEGD. J. 0. KEATS,ADMINISTRATOR. LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE FOR BOOTS AND SHOES.

APPLICATION TILED MAR.24,1904.

6 SHBETS-SHEET 3.

l0 ix 2 In 2@Zb V g zjwiw $31M No. 818,766. PATENTED APR. 24, 1906. J.KEATS, DEOD.

J. c. nus, ADMINISTRATOR. LA-STING' AND SEWING MACHINE FOR BOOTS ANDSHOES.

APPLIOATION FILED MAE. 24. 1904.

@ SHEETS-SHEET 4.

fl fiwmre QM No. 818,766. PATENTED APR. 24, 1906. J. KEATS, DEOD.

J. c. KEATS, ADMINISTRATOR. LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE FOR BOOTS ANDSHOES.

APPLIOATION FILED MAR-2&1904.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

No. 818,766. PATBNTED AP.R..24, 1906. J. KEATS, DEGD.

J. o. KEATS, ADMINISTRATOR. LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE FOR BOOTS ANDSHOES.

APPLICATION FILED MAB-24,1904.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 6.

UNITED sra rns PATENT OFFICE.

JOHN CHARLES KEATS, OF NORTHAMPTON, ENGLAND, ADMINISTRATOR OF JOHNKEATS, DECEASED, ASSIGNOR TO THE PHOENIX BOOT MACHINERY COMPANY LIMITED,OF STREET, ENGLAND.

LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE FOR BOOTS AND SHOES.

No. 818,766. Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed March 24, 1904. Serial No. 199,697.

ranged that the fulcra to which the said levers are pivoted can beshifted by means of a handle to give to the grippers, respectively, alongitudinal or lateral movement of the extent required for theparticular work in hand. The upper gripper are flexibly Patented April24, 1 906.

To aZZ whom it may concern: 1

Be it known that I, J OHN CHARLES KEArs, j a subject of the King ofGreat Britain, and j a resident of 37 Lutterworth road, Northampton, inthe county of Northampton, Eng- I land, am the administrator of theestate of aws of each i attached, so as to give way if anexceptionally-thick piece of material is gripped, and so i avoidfracture, and are provided with set screws which can be adjusted toprevent the grippers from remaining closed under the impulse of thesprings when the upper jaws are intended to be raised. The operation ofthe grippers is effected positively by the cams without the interventionor assistance of springs in either direction.

The sewing mechanism comprises a straight needle reciproeated by a leverfulcrumed 011 the framing and rocked to and fro by a cam on thedriving-shaft. There is also a tension device for the needle-thread anda draw-off lever which can by shifting the fulcrum be made to measureoff the exact quantity of thread necessary for a stitch of anypredetermined length. The presser-footoperating mechanism, which givesthe resser-foot a sideway feed, as well as an upanddown movement,consists of lovers positively actuated from the cam-shaft and having inthe case of the feed-lever an adjustable link connection by which thefeed may be regulated according to requirement. To permit of thepresser-foot moving laterally as well as verticaily, theoperating-levers work in slots in the presser-foot support, and thelatter is secured to attachments which are free to move in horizontaland vertical guides, so that the movement in the two directions can takeplace simultaneously without interference either way.

The shuttle is mounted on a rotary recipro eating carrier which iscapable ofbeing lowered out of position to replace an empty spoolwithout deranging the rest of the machine, thus economizing much time.The carrier is capable of sliding on a vertical spindle, but rotatestherewith. It is held in its raised position by a sliding fork which canbe advanced or retired horizontally as desired. The spindle has at itslower end a pinion en- JOHN Knx'rs, deceased, late of Bagnall, in thecounty of Stafford, England, who did invent certain new and usefulImprovements in Lasting and Sewing Machines for Boots and Shoes, ofwhich the following is a specifica tion.

The present invention relates to machines for lasting and sewing bootsand shoes in one operation, particularly boots and shoes of lightmaterial and those which are known as turned shoes.

In the specification of British patent granted to John Keats, No. 4,594,March 10, 1900, there was described an attachment for an or(.linaryshoemakers sewing machine by means of which the shoes were lasted at thesame time that they were sewed.

According to the present invention the lasting and sewing mechanisms areincorporated into one single machine of a construction admirably adaptedfor carrying out the combined, operation of lasting and sewing turnedshoes and similar light goods.

In constructing a lasting and sewing machine embodying theseimprovements a frame is provided mounted on a pillar or other suitablesupport. Within the frame is arranged a vertical driving-spindle andmeans for rotating the same. This spindle carries the cams for actuatingthe various parts. These parts are adj ustably connected, so that themachine may be readily adapted to the requirements and exigencies of thework in progress.

The lasting mechanism comprises, in common with other machinespreviously de scribed by the inventor above mentioned, two pairs ofgripping-jaws, one of which effects the lasting proper-that is to say,pulls the leather tight upon the lastand the other smooths out thecreases in a lateral direction. Both these pairs of grippers areattached to a set of levers which is interposed between them and theoperating-cams and so argaging with a segment on a rocking lever movedbya cam on the driving-shaft. The position of the shuttle beneath the workpermits of the employment of a waxed thread, which can be kept warm bymeans of a flame.

In constructing the machine it is preferred to arrange for theneedle-bar, the vertical pivots of the grippers, and the maindrivingshaft to be parallel to one another and in the same verticalplane.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is an elevation of the right-handside of a lasting and sewing machine constructed according to thisinvention. Fig. 2 is a similar view of the left-hand side of themachine. Fig. 3 is a sectional plan view on the line 1 2 of Fig. 1,showing the lasting-grippers and smoothing-grippers and the means foroperating the same; and Fig. 3 is a detail vertical section taken in theplane of the line 1 of Fig. 3. Fig. 4 shows in side view thelasting-grippers with the cams for giving motion thereto. Fig. 5 showsin plan view the arrangement of levers operated by a cam for giving thesideway movement to the smoothing -grippers, and Fig. 6 is a similarview of the mechanism for giving the pull to the lasting-grippers. Fig.7 is a front view of the needle-bar head, showing the lasting andsmoothing grippers in position. Fig. 8 is a similar view with the platecarrying the needle-bar and grippers removed, showing the feeding andpresser foot in position. Fig. 9 is a sectional view of the same, andFig. 10 shows the feeding-foot and guide detached. Fig. 11 is asectional plan view of the cams and levers for giving an adjustablyvariable feed-motion to the feeding and presser foot, and Fig. 12 showsthe same in side view.

Referring to Figs. 1 and 2, a is the main framing of the machine,consisting of a hollow-box casting bolted at its base to the top of apillar b, which extends down to the floor and is provided with a broadbase to aflord a firm support to the machine. 0 is a vertical shaftwhich receives rotary motion through suitable gearing from any source ofpower. This shaft 0 is supported upon ball-bearings d and has keyed uponit cams for transmitting motion to the several parts of the machine. eis the needle-bar, sliding vertically in the head f, which is screwed tothe front part of the main framing a. The bar 6 is coupled by a pair oflinks 9 g to the front end of a rocklever h, rocking upon a fulcrum-pini, carried by a bracket secured to the top of the framing a. Asuitably-grooved cam j, keyed to the shaft 0, serves to impart through abowl on the rock-lever h the properly-timed reciprocatin movement to theneedle-bar. 7c is the shutt e, which rests upon and is driven by thecarrier Z. This carrier is free to slide vertically upon the spindle m,to which it is coupled by a groove and feather. The spindle m issupported on ball-bearings held by a bracket n, pendent from the mainframing,

and to its lower end is keyed apinion 0, into which gears a sec-tor 19,formed on the racklever g. This lever rocks on the fulcrum-pin 1" andreceives its reciprocating motion from the cam s, keyed to the shaft 0.

The shuttlecarrier rests normally upon the forked slide t, as shown inFigs. 1 and 2, which keeps the shuttle in its working position. When,however, it is required to remove the shuttle, the forked slide t iswithdrawn from the carrier by means of the handwheel and pinion u,leaving the carrier free to fall and the shuttle to be removed, asindicated by dotted lines at Fig. 1.

In Figs. 3 and 1, v w represent a air of lasting-grippers for pullingthe uppereather tight over the last. The lower gripper v is formed onthe end of a sliding rod :20, and it rests upon and is free to slideover the throatplate y in its movement of pullin the upper tight andreturning to take up t he forward position again. The rod :1; slides inthe guides z z, screwed to the top of the bracket a, forming art of themain framing. Secured to the rod in is a block 1, having a pair of lugsstanding out horizontally, to which is coupled one end of a link 2. Theother end of this link embraces a pin 3, (see Fig. 6,) car ried by asliding piece 4;, fitted to slide in a segment 5, which is caused torock 11 on the fulcrum-pin 6, carried by a lug stan ing out from themain framin The other end of the segment 5 carries a owl 7, which fitsinto the groove cut in the face-cam 8. The rotation of this cam gives anunvarying extent of vibration to the segment 5 and through the link 2the pull to the lasting-grippers but to enable the operator to regulateat will the extent of such ull the pin 3 of the sliding piece 4 iscouple by link 9 to a lever-arm 10, rigidly fixed to the vertical rod11. A handle 12, fixed to this rod, enables the operator, through thelever-arm 10 and the link 9, to move the pin 3 nearer to or farther fromthe fulcrum-pin 6 of the segment 5, and thus give the amount of pullrequired. The upper lasting-gripper w is coupled elastically to a lever13, fulcrumed at 14 to a pair of lugs standing up from the block 1. Anadjustingscrew 15 insures the lifting of the upper-griper when the leveris raised. The end of this ever is coupled by a short link to an arm 16,carrying a bowl 17, which engages with the cam 18 on the vertical shaft0. The rotation of this cam thus 0 erates the upper-gripper to grip orrelease thework. The upper and lower smoothing-grippers 19 and 19* arerocked sidewise upon the vertical pivot 19 The arm 20 of the uppergripper carries a pendent pin 21, which enters a groove in the lever 22,'fulcrumed to a lug 28*, standing out from the framing. The lever 22 iscoupled by a link 24, to a pin 25, carried by a sliding piece 26, whichslides in a segment 27, fulcrumed at 28 to a lug on the framing. Thesegment is extended beyond the fulcrum 2S and carries a bowl that fitsin a groove in the j cam 29. By shifting the pin 25 along the groove inthe segment 27 by means of the l link 30 and arm 31, fixed to rod 11,through f the lever 12, the side pull to be given to thesmoothing-grippers can be adjusted according to requirement. The lift tothe upper smoothing-gripper is effected by the bowl on the end of thelever 20. and cam-groove 23. The lower smoothing-gripper 19* has novertical movement, but only rocks laterally together with the uppersmoothing-gripper 19. The feeding and presser foot 32 (see Figs. 7 to10) is carried by a vertically-sliding bar 33, which works in guides 34and is held down by springs 35, a lifter 36 being provided to raise thepresser when required. For giving the horizontal or feeding movement tothe presserfoot the guides 34 are attached to a transverse slide 37,which fits in guides in the vertically-sliding piece 38. The presserfootis lifted at each feed movement by means of the tappet 39, carried bythe end of the rock-lever 41), which is fulcrumed to the framii'ig at 41and carries a bowl that enters the groove of the cam 42 on the shaft 0.(See Figs. 11 and 12.) The transverse or feeding nmvement of thepresserfoot is effected by the pin 43, formed on the end of the slottedlever-arm 41, which is rocked by a pin 45, carried by the adjustablepiece 46, clamped by a set-screw to the rock-lever 47, fulerumed at 18on the framing. The lever 47 carries a bowl 19, that fits in the grooveof the cam 50. The adjusted position of the piece =16 nearer to orfarther from the fulcrum 48 determines the length of stitch of the workin hand. The hole in the transverse slide 37 for the pin 43 is elongatedto permitofthe lift of the presserfoot.

The thread l is led from a bobbin 50 through i a tension device 51 anddown to the pulley of a draw-off lever 52 and thence up to and over afixed guide-pulley 53 and then down to the needle. The lever 52, whichis fulcrumed at l 51 to the framing, is slotted to receive a pin 55,carried by an adjustable piece 56 on the l lever 57, fulcrumed at 58 andoperated by] the cam 59 on the shaft 0. By adjusting the position of thepin on the lever 57 the j draw-off lever 52 is caused to measure off theexact quantity of thread to suit the length of j stitch and thickness ofthe work in hand.

60 is a gas-pipe for providing a flame near the shuttle, by means ofwhich flame the waxed thread therein may be kept warm. f

The operation of the machine is as follows: i

The work is introduced between the throatplate y and the presserfoot 32and the machine is started. A stitch is inserted in the ork by means ofthe needle, while the lastinggrippers w i) take hold of the upper of theshoe and draw it tight on the last. The creases are at the same timeremoved from the upper by the lateral movement of thesmoothing-grippers. The stroke of both sets of grippers as the sewingproceeds is regulated simultaneously as regards length by the han dlever12 in the manner above explained. The length of the stitch is set fromtime to time, as required, by adjusting the position of the piece 46 onthe rock-lever 47. Correspondingly the draw-oil lever 52 has its fulcrum55 shifted to regulate the proper supply of thread necessary for eachstitch. The looking or shuttle thread is drawn from a cop in theshuttle-case 7r, which when exhausted can be replaced by a fresh one ina very easy manner if the shuttlecarrier be lowered, as above described,to render it accessible without disturbing the rest of the machine.

Certain subject-matter disclosed but not claimed in this application isdisclosed and claimed in United States Letters Patent granted to meDecember 5, 1905, No. 806,744, entitled Machinery for making boots andshoes.

hat I claim as the invention, and desireto secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. In a lasting and sewing machine for boots and shoes comprising sewingand last ing mechanism mounted in one and the same framing and driven bycams on the same shaft, the combination of two pairs of grippers,mechanisms operating the grippers to pull respectively in longitudinaland lateral directions, comprising movable slides, segments supportingsaid slides, devices for rock ing said segments and a hand-lever and connections for simultaneously moving the slides toward or away from thecenter of motion of said segments to regulate the draft of the grippers,substantially as described.

2. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination with a presserfoot,vertical and horizontal supporting-slides therefor, levers for operatingthe presserfoot vertically and horizontally and devices :for operatingsaid levers,of a connecting-piece attached to the lever for operatingthe presserfoot horizontally and to its operating device and meanswhereby one of said points of attachment of said connecting-piece may beshifted to vary the throw of the lever and adjust the lateral travel ofthe horizontal slide, substantially as set forth.

3. In a lasting and sewing machine for boots and shoes,lasting-grippers, means for opening and closing their jaws, smoothinggrippers, means for opening and elosi 11g their & 818,766

jayvs, slides for the lasting and smoothing In testimony whereof I havesigned my grippers, devices for connecting the lasting name to thisspecification in the presence of and smoothing grippers pivotally to thesaid tWo subscribing Witnesses.

sl1des,-p1voted segments forming guides for JOHN CHARLES KEATS,

5 the slides, devices for continuously rocking the Segments While themachine is at Work Admtmstmtor of the estate of J 07m Keats, tie

and means for shifting the slides upon their ceased segments to increaseor diminish the stroke Witnesses: of the grippers as required,substantially as ALFRED V. BISHOP,

10 described. H. D. JAMEsoN.

